Exit News
Serbia – Hotel Milka & Exit Festival
Tuesday 15th September 2009
Now if your memory is anything like mine, Serbia was a 'word' that brings back shaky images of a BBC report on a conflict that was never fully understood. Belgrade, a 'word' best spoken quietly referring to sectarian troubles that very few Englishmen could comprehend. Believe me; it's all changed.
The six hour train journey from Budapest's Keleti station flew by; courtesy of stunning views provided by rich, fruitful farmland that hugged the train line. Despite the heat, the atmosphere on the train was electric due to the high spirits and anticipation that was present in every Exit-goer. The vast majority of the train was occupied by the festival crowd, and the majority of those had been on their own mini European tour which fuelled the hunger to discover this little-known land.
Serbia was no longer a word but a place, it was real. Novi Sad, a city just like any.
Arriving in darkness, Novi Sad welcomed us with the lights of taxis and large neon branding that was reminiscent in this part of Europe following the recent collapse of communism. The large area outside of the station was a like a harbour for taxis that were waiting to pray on the bulging wallets of western Europeans. After being pre-warned of the initial predaceous taxi drivers, we moved a short while on from the train station to be met by a canary yellow 'Novo Taxi'. The driver, (guilty of not knowing his name, but Exit would eventually take its toll), was extremely friendly and wanted to know more and more of our travels so far. We used this opportunity to pick up some basic Serbian to be used as courtesy to help shed the reputation of another ignorant Briton.
There it was; Milka, our temporary home for this messy affair.
We had booked our place at hotel Milka through the Into-Exit website, and of course the decision making was heavily influenced by the hostel boasting ongoing parties on the roof terrace complete with all day BBQ's and immediate amenities. Arriving the day before the start of the festival, our wiry yet adrenaline pumped selves were greeted warmly by the Into-Exit staff answering our curious minds with exactly what we wanted to hear, and the excitement continued to grow. It was barely a matter of minutes before we were straight into our room. A spacious twin room which was complete with a sofa in the joint 'living area' and an ensuite bathroom.
Our initial survey of the room was short lived, followed by the sprint up to the roof terrace to make a secondary assessment; which didn't disappoint! Before we even came close to testing our newly acquired phrases, we were met by a giant of a Serbian man named George. Two shot glasses, (that shared more similarity of half pints!), were handed to us, full to the brim of a clear liquid named Rakia. This would soon become the poison we all hated to love. Not quite sure how to approach the drink we were handed, gentle encouragement aided the liquid's disappearing act and refills were prompt. This was exactly attitude we wanted and it would soon be us giving the advice to the crowd that was yet to appear. No sooner were the glasses emptied once again, our bellies were full, down to the amazing generosity and hospitality of the local Serb's and Into-Exit staff. A beautifully prepared lamb stew hit every possible spot and was a great introduction into Serbian cuisine. A few more drinks and we were ready for bed; and the approaching parties.
Now this was it, the day that all the excitement and anticipation had been leading up to, the start of the festival. The night's sleep had acted like an elixir for the tires of travelling, and the transformed roof terrace boosted the party moral yet again. The DJ's were already playing and the area was complimented by flowers, sun chairs and more and more bodies as the transfer coaches arrived. Our rumbling bellies had led us to the on hand Into-Exit staff who pointed us into the direction of the Mega-Market for breakfast. Just a two minute walk from the hotel, the mammoth Mega-Market was easily in contention for the largest supermarket in the world. With an aisle dedicated to ketchup and rock bottom prices, (a litre of vodka for £3), you would find absolutely everything, (local and non-local), you could possibly want.
Back on the roof terrace and a tidy range of cocktails, spirits and beers at extremely reasonable prices, in conjunction with the tidy sound system really got the party going. Sounds ranging from chilled Balearic beats, jazz house and remixed party favourites had the all the resident revellers to their feet. Everyone I met on that roof terrace soon became a best friend, eager to exchange stories thus far and to shed light on previous Exit experiences. As inhibitions quickly fled people's minds via the evermore popular peachy morning cocktail; courage was mustered among many to tackle the swimming pool which was soon erected. A theatrical display of poor diving by local giant George had everyone in tears. As the sun set on this amazing day, people were preparing themselves for the festival itself.
The short taxi ride to the fortress cost no more than five Euros and provided night views across Novi Sad. After being dropped off at the main bridge to the fortress, what we saw next no words could do justice. It was more than a sight but a collective conscience, such an incredible feeling. Hoards of party goers flocked across the bridge and through narrow streets full of shops and bars providing a last chance for another swift pivo, (beer). Before coming close to the festival gates, the thumping base from the vast amount of systems inside got the heart beating faster and faster. Once entering, the crowds where graced by the majestic main stage in all of its towering glory. Sounds of the Arctic Monkeys met our ears as the crowds flew forward, (having missed Lilly Allen after getting too caught up the pre-parties at the hotel). The magnitude of the festival was far greater than I could have ever comprehended. After staying on at the main stage to see Caspa & Rusko and Sub Focus we ventured on to explore the maze of stages that the festival provided. We were met by what can only be described as an abyss densely lined with people. The dance stage was as big if not bigger than the main stage, with the huge sounds coming right from James Zabiela's decks. My advice to anyone who is going to attend the festival would be to not get so caught up in every act, (who you have probably seen many times at home), but to explore as much of the stages and areas as possible. There is so much diversity in terms of music, acts and what I valued the most; the people. After capturing an image I will never forget, (the view from the fortress clock tower), we ended our night at the 'Happy Novi Sad' stage, to see an incredible set preformed by DJ's I had never heard of.
Morning had long broken and the heat started to rise as we made our way out of the festival gates and back into another taxi. The ride back to Milka gave us time to reflect on the first day's experiences and discuss highlights. As we arrived at our destination our feet were subconsciously led back up to the terrace by the sounds of yet more DJ's. I was truly amazed to find so many people back up onto the roof, drinking, dancing and sharing their own accounts of the first night. Slumped down in a lounger, I indulged in a few more peachy mornings, catching the sun' early rays. It was another two more ours of sun-bathing, drinking and dancing before retiring to my room, eager to continue what had already begun.
The second day was much like the first. Despite the fact everyone was worn and battered from the previous night's festivities, it did not show on a single person's sprit. The atmosphere was as lively and bustling as the fresh faced begging. A seemingly random show from a local Serbian brass band added a new dimension to the party as the resident's showed the guys how they got down to traditional Serbian folk! An all day BBQ attached to the bar area kept bellies full for a mere £2.50, which bought you delicious homemade burgers, marinated chicken pieces, pickled salad and your own bodyweight in local bread. It was then closer to evening time before we chose to sample the delights of the local restaurant downstairs. Three pounds will buy you anything from the mains section of the menu. From clear favourite among many, the goulash, to pork stew stuffed paprikas. The unknown Serbian cuisine is now easily a favourite of mine. Returning to the terrace once again to see the sun rise over the glasses of potent cocktails led to the preparation of the second night within the fortress walls.
Now I don't want to bore with anymore 'I saw...' and 'we drank...' recollections of the events that unfolded through the course of this magical weekend; I just want to summarise: Go to Serbia and Exit Festival. Book hotel Milka, (the best party hostel I have ever stayed at). Meet the local people and explore the culture. Enjoy yourself. It really is as simple as that. There truly is no more advice I can offer that will be more useful then that, as your own experience will carve out a story you will never forget.
Andrew Firth